Was there any fabric innovation or techniques you debuted this time?
GS: We do that every time, whether we talk about it or not. There’s always an evolution. This time, because of Sri Lanka, the major craft for the show was batik, which is the craft from here and Indonesia. So, we engaged with it: we’ve done beautiful polka dots in batik, splatters in batik, crackles in batik. It’s all part of the show. And a lot of this batik is created within the micro-communities of India and Sri Lanka together, so there’s a cross-pollination of this craft between the two communities. And that made us understand how this craft is perceived very differently in these places.
Architecture and geometry are something that you have always played with in your work. Is there a piece in this collection that owes a distinct debt to Sri Lankan architecture?
AK: A lot of it, actually. First of all, let’s start with the colours. There’s a lot of black and white. You could also see we made boxes—literally—out of the skirt. And then we threw in some more colours and circles around.
GS: I think that one piece would be the sarong, which is so much about Sri Lanka and so much about Bawa.
Your clothes make everyone who wears them happy. What is it that makes you guys happy?
GS: There are many things that make Amrita and Gursi happy, but what is it that makes Lovebirds happy? Now that it’s 10 years old and has become its own entity and has its own personality, I think it is happy when it sees people wearing a piece from the first collection. That’s what brings us immense happiness—when you see that it has lived over time and that person has worn it all the time. It’s their piece that they love to keep and love to wear. That’s flattery for us.
If Lovebirds was a person at this garden party, what would it look like?
AK: I would think it would look like one of the sculptures here.
GS: Yes, I think the form of the sculptures at Lunuganga is so beautiful, and what we presented today was also very sculptural.
Is there something we’re seeing at Lovebirds today that we’ve never seen before?
GS: Many things...lots of femininity with masculinity.
AK: We’ve never done a sarong and, yes, there are a lot of feminine ruffles.
GS: And a lot of shoulder pads. Big structures. I think this is the most craft-led collection that we’ve done. It’s what distinguishes this collection from others. We have always engaged with Indian craftsmen... We’ve done block prints, handmade fabrics, hand embroidery… But this time we went to small communities that live very deep inside Sri Lanka, in Ahungalla, which is 30 minutes from Bentota. We did this with the One World Foundation, which is a non-profit that engages with women who are engaging with crafts for their livelihood.
Which was the one piece that took forever to come together?
GS: I think it’s the fabric we made in-house, in our studio with our team. It was made with all the leftover threads and the threads were put together to make this beautiful fabric with a blue sculpture on it. It’s a very deformed, sculptural piece, and it took a very long time and a lot of effort to come together.
AK: But it was really nice to see the team working on it. It was like a community dress.
Describe the collection in three words…
GS: Very forward, craft-led, sculptural.
AK: Powerful, modern, very architectural.