Lately, restaurants seem less inclined to be everything to everyone. This August, look around and you’ll see they’re picking a lane and sticking to it. There’s a world-championship-winning Neapolitan pizzaiolo in a new office complex in Lower Parel; a Fort wine bar trying to make by-the-glass drinking an everyday habit; Japanese and Korean hotpots for the monsoon; and elaborate desi chai rituals in another office complex. One American spot is moving towards cooking that’s slightly more regional; and the tongue-tingling pull of mala is at a mainstream chain, no less.
Bandra, as it is wont to, refuses to sit still: a new Neapolitan pizzeria, a Le Cordon Bleu-trained chef’s bakery, and an obsessively engineered toast-and-coffee shop have all opened within a few streets of each other. Elsewhere, though, one new restaurant is plating Benarasi kachori next to pesto fusilli with a perfectly straight face and calling it comfort.
Here are the places that have our attention this month.
Openings and launches
Pique, Horniman Circle
Mumbai has embraced speciality coffee, craft beer and cocktails, but wine is still getting there. Now, new wine bar Pique’s founder Sasha Goenka has set out to make wine feel like a Tuesday habit. She’s a Le Cordon Bleu Paris graduate with WSET Level 3 certification and a passion for both fitness and wine. Pique’s list features around 12 wines by the glass and 24 by the bottle, refreshed monthly, alongside an exclusive partnership with Vallonne Vineyards that includes one of the few Indian orange wines currently available by the glass. The food, created with chef and cheesemaker Aditya Raghavan, asks for tables to be loaded with plates meant for sharing, from steak tartare with smoked oyster emulsion and chicken Caesar pizza to a French onion grilled cheese and a parmesan cheesecake with red wine reduction. Pique’s playlist swings from jazz to bossa nova, and its programming will soon include Y2K and old-school hip-hop nights. This two-level wine bar and kitchen is open all day from noon, and there’s even talk of a post-run drunch for Mumbai’s growing run-club crowd.


































