Buying your first serious watch? Start here

Buying your first serious timepiece is a serious business. It’s a shift from just buying another accessory to starting a collection. Navigating the entry point can be overwhelming; there are movements, case sizes, complications, and resale values, not to mention the question of what you’ll actually want to keep wearing once the novelty wears off. So, where do you start?

To help build a roadmap for your first timepiece, we spoke to six watch collectors, industry insiders, and tastemakers about the piece that started it all for them, and the exact advice they’d give anyone taking the plunge today.

Sarosh Mody, director, Luxury Watch Works

The origin story

My first mechanical watch was an HMT Janta, bought in 1998. I had just entered the Swiss watch industry, working with Piaget, and I was scheduled to fly to Neuchâtel for training. Prior to that, I’d never even been inside an aircraft, let alone flown domestic. Here I was, a 22-year-old middle-class boy who refused to land in Switzerland without a mechanical watch, but my budget wasn’t more than what a pair of Italian socks cost today.

I went out, bought a white-dial HMT Janta, and got to work customisation-wise. The Parsi in me wanted it to have its own exclusivity, so I repainted the dial and redid the lines myself. Voila! I had my own custom mechanical watch to proudly wear while visiting the ateliers of Cartier, Baume & Mercier, and Piaget. When the brand managers in Switzerland asked what was on my wrist, my face would beam as I said, “It’s an HMT, India’s only mechanical watch.” I don’t wear it anymore, but it sits on display in my office today. If I were starting over on a tight budget, I’d still do the exact same thing.

The starter strategy

Go contemporary pre-owned for the golden era of design. If someone handed me ₹1 lakh today to buy a first watch, I’d look at brands like Christopher Ward or Victorinox. But my biggest advice for a beginner is to explore the contemporary pre-owned market. To me, the period from the 1970s to the early 2000s is the golden era of modern watchmaking aesthetics. Buying pre-owned doesn’t just mean vintage, it also opens up incredible value. Just ensure you buy from a trusted, professional source or get the watch certified.

The philosophy

I’d rather use my phone than wear a quartz watch. Technologically, quartz is sound and accurate, but for me it has to be mechanical. I’d genuinely rather check my cellphone for the time than wear a quartz watch on my wrist. As for homegrown Indian watchmakers, I appreciate the branding and effort coming up today, but our ecosystem is still about a decade away from competing with Swiss and Japanese standards. Buy the absolute best mechanical watch your budget allows.

Quick fire

Tiny watches: yay or may?
Yay! All the way.

Would you ever buy a watch sight unseen, or does it have to be tried on first?
After 30 years, it’s an instinct.

Is a watch a tool, an investment, or jewellery?
An essential accessory. In my case, it’s my alter-ego.

Sarat Bhogavalli, managing partner, Moksha Consulting, and founder, NoHype Horology

The origin story

My first mechanical watch was a Tissot PR 516GL, bought to celebrate a work milestone. In 2010, I was working in technical sales and had a fantastic quarter. To celebrate the achievement, I went straight to a Tissot boutique and bought the watch with my own money. After looking at a few options around that price point, what sold me was the motor-racing-themed steering wheel stamped on the case back—I thought it was incredibly cool. Today, I’d probably pick something a bit smaller and more understated. I’ve outgrown the case size, but it holds a permanent spot in my collection as a wonderful memory I’ll never let go of.

The starter strategy

Buy modern pre-owned with warranty or choose between a heritage brand and an independent. If you’re starting out today, buy a modern, pre-owned watch that still has its original box, papers, and most of its warranty period remaining. It’s hands-down the best way to extract full value for a mechanical timepiece. When looking at entry points, collectors generally have two paths: if you want to play it safe, stick with a classic heritage house brand; if you want something with unique character, look to independent brands like Baltic or Traska, alongside staples like Citizen, Seiko, and Tissot.

The recommendation

Play it classic with a Tissot PRX or go indie with a Baltic Aquascaphe. With a ₹1 lakh budget today, my two top picks perfectly reflect those two paths. For a safe, iconic house-brand option, go with the Tissot PRX (35 mm or 38 mm). If you want an independent piece with serious style, get a smaller Baltic Aquascaphe fitted on a “beads of rice” bracelet.

Quick fire

Tiny watches: yay or nay?
Yay.

Dress watch or sports watch?
Dress watch.

Would you ever buy a watch sight unseen?
Never.

Preetika Mathew, editor, WatchTime India

The origin story

My first major watch pick-up was a gold Tissot PRX Automatic, bought in 2023 for my 40th birthday. While I owned everyday watches during school and college, my first serious purchase from an expert lens happened after I joined WatchTime. I had been eyeing the Tissot PRX for a long time, but I played the waiting game until the brand released the exact specifications I wanted. The PRX originally launched as a much larger men’s piece, which didn’t suit my wrist, followed by smaller quartz and gold options. I held off until they finally released a smaller-diameter case in a gold tone featuring an automatic movement, appealing to both my love for ’70s integrated-bracelet aesthetics and a bit of the south Indian in me. Waiting for all those elements to align made picking it up for a milestone birthday even more meaningful.

The starter strategy

Look to the microbrand space under ₹1 lakh for true innovation. Choosing a first watch is highly subjective, depending on your lifestyle, but if you’re deeply interested in design, the microbrand space under ₹1 lakh is doing incredible work. Brands like Studio Underd0g or Baltic operate in smaller production volumes and offer far more creative freedom at accessible price points. If you prefer established players, Hamilton, Tissot, and even Titan, who are doing big things with bespoke pieces and in-house mechanical movements, are great avenues to explore.

The philosophy

Vintage collecting is a journey you grow into, not an entry point. I love vintage watches, but I never steer a beginner straight into vintage collecting. A friend of mine once found an old HMT Rekha for ₹7,000 and passed on it because it showed wear and tear, which perfectly highlights the divide: newcomers often see vintage as “used”, while seasoned collectors value the exact scratches and patina that tell a watch’s story. True vintage collectors don’t repaint dials or polish away cases, because every mark retains the piece’s authenticity. It takes time to build that appreciation, so it’s best to buy new or contemporary first, and let vintage naturally come later in your journey.

Quick fire

Tiny watches: yay or nay?
Obsessed with tiny watches! While my PRX is on the larger side, most of my collection consists of small dials.

Smartwatch on the other wrist, or strictly analogue?
Strictly analogue. I have a phone that’s smart; that’s more than enough.

Is a watch a tool, an investment, or jewellery?
Emotion. A timepiece commemorates life’s milestones, weddings, 21st birthdays, graduations in a way almost no other accessory can.

Aditya Jassi, singer and songwriter

The origin story

My first self-purchased watch was a TAG Heuer bought around 2009-10 while on tour in the Middle East. I played a couple of gigs in Dubai and Abu Dhabi, took my earnings, walked into a mall, and bought a TAG Heuer. Back then, TAG was huge in Delhi, and while I loved the iconic TAG Heuer Monaco, it was out of reach, so I picked a model that fit my budget. I still own it today. For me, every watch I keep carries an emotional connection to a specific moment in time. My very first watch was actually a gifted Mickey Mouse/Donald Duck piece from my dad when I graduated 6th grade.

The starter strategy

Longines offers incredible value. If you’re starting out with a budget around ₹1 lakh, Longines, specifically models like the Conquest, are a fantastic entry point into serious watchmaking. When it comes to new versus pre-owned, I personally prefer buying a new watch. As for movements, it has to be 100 per cent mechanical.

The philosophy

I don’t sell my watches; each piece is part of a storybook. A watch isn’t an investment to flip; it’s an accessory tied to personal milestones and memories. My latest favorite piece is the M.A.D.2 REDemption, which my wife gave me for our anniversary. We have a deal where I buy her bags and she buys me watches. I also love homegrown Indian craft, especially what Jaipur Watch Company is doing by embedding historic Indian coins into their dials.

Quick fire

Tiny watches: yay or nay?
All the way yay! I used to like chunky watches, but now I love smaller dials, from my 36 mm Rolexes to a small rectangular JLC (Jaeger-LeCoultre).

Smartwatch on the other wrist, or strictly analogue?
Strictly analogue. It breaks my heart seeing people sport smartbands over a real watch, but if someone wears a Whoop on the other wrist, I get it.

Would you rather have one exceptional watch or three good ones for the same money?
Three good ones.

Krésha Bajaj, fashion designer

The origin story

My first watch was an unbranded, double-dial Topshop find from 2006. It cost me just a couple of pounds during a trip to London. I wasn’t remotely interested in watches at the time, but the design was so unusual that I couldn’t pass it up. The double dial meant I could keep London time on one side and India time on the other, which turned out to be surprisingly functional. Even though it stopped working years ago, I still wear it today. Topshop sourced accessories from everywhere back then, so I have no idea who actually made it, but every single time I wear or photograph it, my inbox gets flooded with people asking where to find it. 

The starter strategy

Skip the brand-new showcases and hunt for an honest vintage piece. Rather than rushing to buy something off the shelf just because it’s accessible, I’d tell a beginner to spend time researching the vintage market. Older pieces from Cartier, Omega, or Universal Genève carry a level of character and patina that new watches just can’t replicate. Look for a clean, honest watch rather than one that’s been over-polished or modified to look brand-new. The minor scratches and faded dials are what make it unique.

The philosophy

When picking a timepiece, buy what you genuinely love looking at, not what you think you’re supposed to own. Cartier is a fantastic entry point because their design language and history are so strong that you never feel like you’re buying a watch just for the logo. If you’re feeling adventurous, explore vintage Omegas. As a designer, I love that mechanical watches hold a bit of magic. There’s something almost poetic about wearing a piece of micro-mechanics that is technically obsolete in the smartphone age.

Quick fire

Tiny watches: yay or nay?
Yay. I actually prefer them. The return of smaller watches is one of the best things happening in horology right now.

Is a watch a tool, an investment, or jewellery?
Jewellery. But jewellery that happens to have a job.

Smartwatch on the other wrist, or strictly analogue?
Strictly analogue. I don’t need another screen competing for my attention.

Riaan George, content creator and media strategist

The origin story

My early watch collection started in the ’90s with Casios, G-Shocks, and Swatches. I’ve loved watches for as long as I can remember. During the ’90s, G-Shocks and classic Casio were massive, and I used to collect them in all kinds of colours. Owning a classic Swatch was a huge deal back then; it was affordable, yet incredibly aspirational. As a kid, I’d ask for a Casio, Timex, or G-Shock once or twice a year while travelling or as a birthday or Christmas gift. As a teenager, I transitioned into Titan and Timex, rugged, reliable, and perfect for daily college life. Looking back, I’d pick the exact same pieces again; they were the foundation of my love for watches.

The starter strategy

Save until you can afford a solid anchor from a heritage brand. My main advice for a beginner is simple: save up until your budget allows you to buy something that feels like a real step up. In the under ₹1 lakh category, there are fantastic, well-established options from brands like Seiko, Tissot, and Longines. If I had to point a first timer toward one specific brand over and over, Tissot is an absolute no-brainer for quality and heritage

The philosophy

For a first timepiece, I don’t get hung up on movement debates. To me, a watch is a functional tool and a reward to yourself. I like curating a tight rotation of key dress pieces on leather straps that I cycle through slowly.

Quick fire

Tiny watches: yay or nay?
Yay.

Leather strap or steel bracelet?
Leather strap.

Smart watch or strictly analogue?
I LOVE my smartwatch too. Got my hands on the new Apple Watch Series 12, which has been on my wrist for the past 2 days.